Traditional Chinese Silk(1)

Fabrics made in ancient China using mulberry silk as raw material. It is glossy, smooth to the touch, gentle and suitable for the body, and is a high-end clothing material. China was the earliest country to weave silk from mulberry silk, and has been known as the "countries of silk" since ancient times. There are various types of chemical fibers used in weaving silk products in modern times, but traditional Chinese silk is still popular among people from various countries.

Chinese traditional silk archaeology discovered an ivory cup carved with silkworm shaped insect script in the cultural relics of Hemudu in Yuyao, Zhejiang, 6000 years ago; There is half of a silkworm cocoon cut with sharp tools in the Yangshao Cultural Relics of Xiyin Village, Xia County, Shanxi Province; The cultural relics of Qianshanyang in Wuxing, Zhejiang Province dating back to 4700 years ago include plain woven silk fabrics, ribbons, and threads, which are twisted from over ten single silkworms. The warp and weft of the fabric are 53:48 pieces per centimeter. This proves that the production of traditional Chinese silk was not later than the Neolithic Age.

In the oracle inscriptions of the Shang Dynasty, there are many characters such as mulberry, silkworm, silk, and silk. Copper artifacts unearthed from the Yin Ruins often have fine grain remains. The "Guan Zi" refers to the "thin traveling female worker's literary embroidery" during the Jie period, indicating that there were already patterns woven in the Xia and Shang dynasties. There are records of silk weaving in countries such as Zheng, Wei, Qi, Lu, Qin, Chu, and Yue during the Western Zhou Dynasty. The character "Jin" is often seen in the Book of Songs. Jin belongs to colored fabrics, and common patterns of Qi in Zhou artifacts have been unearthed, indicating that Qi belongs to twill fabrics. By the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods, silk had further developed, forming silk weaving centers such as Qilu, Chenliu, and Xiangyi. Silk weaving was also flourishing in the southern Chu and Yue regions. Besides Qi and Jin, light and thin fabrics such as yarn, grain, and silk have all appeared.

During the Han Dynasty, there was significant development in silk, and complex jacquard looms were basically established. Besides Qilu and the Central Plains, Shu has become an important production area. More than ten silk varieties have been found in the literature. The country attaches great importance to sericulture, establishes official management, sets up official weaving rooms, and engages in domestic and foreign silk trade. In the fourth year of Emperor Wu's Yuanfeng reign (107 BC), he lost more than 5 million pieces of silk, and when he passed through the Xiongnu, he was often given the title of "colorful silk thousand pieces". During the Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern Dynasties, there were frequent wars, but silk did not decline. At that time, 19 states produced silk. The reputation of Sichuan brocade is growing day by day, and the development of Jiangnan is particularly fast. Silk also holds a more important position in the national finance, renting and collecting silk (silk), cotton (silk), and silk, and circulating them as currency.

Further development of Tang and Song silk. During the Kaiyuan period of the Tang Dynasty, silk weaving was led by Henan, and the production areas of silk in the country were divided into eight classes, totaling 87 prefectures. After the Anshi Rebellion, the silk industry in Jiangnan flourished. By the Song Dynasty, the center of gravity of silk weaving had moved to the southeast. The Tang and Song dynasties made significant improvements in mulberry planting techniques, resulting in a significant increase in silk production and a more complex variety of silk varieties. During the Song Dynasty, Hangzhou, Run, Hu, Hao, Xiang, Zi, and Wu became famous silk weaving centers. Silk plays a significant role in finance. During Tang Tianbao's reign, the tax on silk reached 7.4 million pieces and 1.85 million tons of silk (6 taels per ton). During the Song Dynasty, the territory was relatively small and cramped, with both tax and silk transportation and buying. During the reign of Emperor Renzong, the number of horses purchased reached 3 million. In the Yuan Dynasty, silk weaving was centralized in the official bureau, and taxes were changed to silk materials. The management was too strict, resulting in a decline in the folk silk industry.

The production and sales of silk in the Ming and Qing dynasties reached their peak. Mulberry planting has further reduced plant height and landscaping, and a large number of second and third silkworms have also been used for weaving, resulting in an increasing yield. At this time, silk was not only used by the wealthy and wealthy, but also by merchants and scholars who wore brocade, blankets, and silk. On the one hand, silk weaving is developing towards exquisite and magnificent brocade, satin, and velvet. Suzhou, Hangzhou, Jinling, and Chengdu are all famous for brocade and satin, while Zhangzhou and Quanzhou are famous for velvet, while Huzhou and Luzhou are famous for crepe and patterned silk; On the other hand, it is also developing towards solidity and durability, producing cocoon and small silk fabrics for the needs of the people. After the middle of the Ming Dynasty, the official weaving bureau gradually declined, and the court's needs were changed to civilian weavers leading the weaving or buying from the market. The rapid development of folk weaving households has led to the emergence of capitalist sprouts. The domestic and international markets for silk fabrics have expanded unprecedentedly, with the emergence of silk merchants and package buyers with huge capital.